Le Fooding

Last night I attended the first of two Le Fooding nights at PS 1 Contemporary Arts Center in Long Island City. It's a benefit for Action Against Hunger that, in their own words, brings "12 chefs, three mixologists, two butchers, one ice-cream maker, two DJs, 15 graphic designers, a select vintner, a fine Champagne, some fromages and a mystery guest, to feast your senses and do some conscious good." I'm fairly self-involved and broke, so for me it was all about the food. The whole charity thing was merely a means of rationalizing spending $30.

In case it wasn't obvious by the frequency of culinary posts on this blog, I place on the upper echelons of food media geekdom. I subscribe to four food-centric podcasts. I build my schedule around Top Chef. I read up on food gossip (did you know Sandra Lee, aka Chef Barbie, is dating Andrew Cuomo? What?). So this seemed like a valid investment, despite my three-jobs-and-barely-paying-the-bills-with-help-from-the-bank-of-mom-and-dad lifestyle. However, in retrospect, I almost wish I'd stayed home.

Part of Le Fooding's mission is to debunk myths of French elitism by championing "messy eating, casual cooking and other less refined, more egalitarian approaches to dining." FAIL. First of all, you had to be in the know to procure tickets. Secret codes were involved. Somehow an estimated 500 people were able to sniff them out. Of course, VIP tickets were available "for all the Very Indoor People." I should have realized this allusion to indoor/outdoor meant the event at the museum would be outdoor for le petits people. I spent 45 minutes waiting in line just to get in, followed by a 45-minute line for a bite of beef and a 65-minute wait for an ice cream cone. It was about 50 degrees and windy, and we were standing in a giant mud puddle. The VIPs were ushered in without wait and served in a private (warm) room, blocked by security guards. As translated by the gentleman in front of me in the entrance line, one event worker proclaimed in French, "This is a fucking mess."

The food for which I was patient enough was generally quite impressive, considering they were cooking for 500 or so. The menu, with comments:

Bo Ssäm
BY DAVID CHANG,
Momofuku, NYC
At first I couldn't find it. Did I mention there were no maps or directions? It was just a giant lawn space with sprawling, unidentified lines. I spent half my evening tracing lines to their back and hoping I was waiting for food. I finally figured out where it was, and it was not a traditional David Chang bo ssäm. Rather, it was more of a pulled pork with a side of kimchi. Disappointing.

Mini Henry IV casserole with creamed cow’s cheese
BY YVES CAMDEBORDE,
Le Comptoir du Relais, Paris
This was a mediocre chicken soup. It was worth it for the bread they served it with, though. Yummy giant garlic crouton!

Grilled chicken necks, yuzu marmalade, delfino
BY WYLIE DUFRESNE,
WD-50, NYC
These were very tasty (and greasy), though would have benefited from additional yuzu marmalade.

Grilled marinated pork ribs, “Teriyaki Pineapple” lemon grass
BY WILLIAM LEDEUIL,
Ze Kitchen Galerie, Paris
I'm not much of a rib-eater and didn't have the patience for the line. The bbq sauce smelled divine, though.

Fried corn with scallop butter
BY SEAN REMBOLD, Diner,
Brooklyn, NY
Again, couldn't deal with the line.

Barbecued sirloin steak
BY CHRISTOPHE PELÉ,
Bigarrade, Paris
The highlight of the evening, though I was hoping for more than a bite after the 45-minute wait. Also, they ran out of it quickly.

LE FROMAGE PLATE
Brie, Livarot, Emmental
BY CHEESES OF FRANCE,
served with bread from
BALTHAZAR BAKERY
The cheese and bread were unremarkable, but a godsend. It was the one stall for which there was never a line. My allies in the ice cream line and I took turns procuring slices to fend off hunger.

LE I SCREAM:
Ice cream flavors: Salted Hazelnut Gianduja, Bourbon Vanilla
BY NICHOLAS MORGENSTERN,
The Greene ice cream, Brooklyn NY
The bourbon vanilla was icy, but the salted hazelnut was divine. I'm not sure it was worth waiting over an hour for, though. I work in a gelato shop (where we have a vastly superior product, I might add). I can tell you from experience that it should not have taken that long. The line was on the verge of revolt by the time I reached the front. The sole scooper was pausing for conversations and photos. She served one bitch SIX cones. So uncool. I almost got behind the cart and scooped for her. I'm not even joking. They made Brooklyn look bad.

LE DRINK
+ BELLERUCHE 2007
M. CHAPOUTIER,
Côtes du Rhône, red
+ BELLERUCHE 2008,
M. CHAPOUTIER,
Côtes du Rhône, white
+ CHANTE ALOUETTE 2005,
M. CHAPOUTIER,
Hermitage, white
+ LA BERNARDINE 2006,
M. CHAPOUTIER,
Châteauneuf du Pape, red
+ CHAMPAGNE VEUVE CLICQUOT
YELLOW LABEL
+ S. PELLEGRINO
Sparkling Natural Mineral Water
+ ACQUA PANNA
Natural Spring Water
Three ace mixologists from New York and Paris shake it all up with Belvedere Vodka.
+ Wild Cherry Mojito
BY THIERRY HERNANDEZ,
Le Plaza Athénée, Paris
+ Moscow Mule
BY RICHARD BOCCATO & GUISEPPE GONZALEZ,
Dutch Kills, Long Island city, NY
You had to wait in a drink-ticket line, and then an additional line across the venue to pick up your beverage. I was not about to spend another hour and an additional $12 for a glass of wine.



The food was pretty tasty, but not worth the lines. I left after the event was slated to end, despite arriving on time, and did not even have time for several of the dishes. Bummer.